17 March 2010

Just kidding

I take back what I said about spring having sprung.
Spring was just toying with me, taunting me with its "warm" temperatures in the 30s.

There was a blizzard on Monday. Ok fine blizzard is too strong of a word. However, when speaking in terms of what should be spring, there was a huge blizzard on Monday.
Yesterday the high was around 28 Fahrenheit.
Today the high is supposed to be around 23.
BUT. Saturday spring will once again toy with me (or come back for good?) with highs in the low 40s! Inconceivable.

Also yesterday in Visual and Performing Arts class, we were shown this painting, "Portrait of Lopukhina" (1797) by Vladimir Borovikovksy.
I. Love. It.




We also learned that poets like to write poems about portraits; I really like the poem for this portrait (surprising, right?):

Яков Полонский "Портрет Лопухиной"

Она давно прошла, и нет уже тех глаз,
И той улыбки нет, что молча выражали
Страданье - тень любви, и мысли - тень печали,
Но красоту её Боровиковский спас.

Так часть души её от нас не улетела,
И будет этот взгляд и эта прелесть тела
К ней равнодушное потомство привлекать,
Уча его любить, страдать, прощать, молчать.


Yakov Polonsky "Portrait of Lopukhina"

Long since she passed away: no more those eyes,
No more that smile which silently expressed
The suffering of her love and her sad thoughts.
But her beauty Borovikovsky preserved.

Her soul, in part, is therefore with us still,
And this her gaze and this her body charm
Will fascinate indifferent generations,
Teaching them
to love, to suffer, to forgive, to be silent.






Next post about Kazan.
I hope you're all very warm. I'm not jealous.

14 March 2010

Here comes the sun

I would like to start this post with a lovely little number by Peter Nalitch, Russia's singer chosen for Eurovision 2010. I don't really like the song chosen for Eurovision, but a Russian friend showed me this song and, well, you just have to watch.



As you might infer from my lack of posts, I've been a little busy. Classes are going fairly well but most of my time is taken up with my work tutoring and interning at the photo gallery. The other day I was given a new task of correcting English translations on the gallery website as well as translating an article from Russian to English, which has proved to be pretty challenging. The article is about a photographer's most recent photo project and is full of tricky, technical photography/art terms which I don't even know in English let alone Russian. Needless to say, I'm learning a lot. I've also started talking more to the others working at the gallery and have discovered that my Russian actually isn't as bad as I thought it is, and I can even be funny in Russian! It is wonderful. The gallery also opened a new exhibit on Thursday, and I discovered with joy the section of the gallery where they sell books and reprints of all sorts of photographs. Overweight suitcase here I come.

At the end of February and beginning of March I felt like I was stuck in a rut and that my Russian wasn't going anywhere. I so badly want to master this language and learn about this mysterious culture which I am for some reason so drawn to, but at the same time I feel like my head can't handle any more or it will explode. However, I think the rut is ending. I keep realizing how little time I have left (two months whaaaat) and how much I still want/have to do: learn Russian, learn Russian jokes, explore the city parks, learn my way around the city above ground (I have mastered the metro), go to museums and plays and ballets and exhibits, take millions of pictures, something about writing a few papers and doing research, buy souvenirs, take a few trips, and sleep? I'll do the last one later.

Saturday brought the arrival of one of Kelly's friends from Dickinson as well as our Dickinson Russian professor, both visiting for spring break. We went to a chocolate factory and, in Willy Wonka fashion (minus the Oompa Loompas and treacherous chocolate river), had a little tour complete with as many chocolate samples as we could handle. After the chocolate factory we set off, chocolate coursing through our veins, to prepare for a night of festivities. We danced the night (and chocolate) away and even met up with one of our Russian TAs from Freshman year! It was a very successful day which didn't end until 5 in the morning. Fantastic.


Today over a delicious Azerbaijanian lunch we were discussing our research projects, courses to take next year, and future possibilities of life in general, when all of a sudden I had one of those moments where suddenly everything makes sense and you know what you want to do with your life. I won't go into too much detail because I'm still figuring it out, but a little seedling of a plan is starting to grow and it will probably be epic and have something to do with photography and Russia and even a little politics thrown in. Of course this is all very lofty thinking at the moment, but I wanted you to know: I am excited.

As far as the cultural program aspect, we have of course been going to various theaters, dance performances, plays, etc, etc. As my host mom says, I lead a hard life. Later this week we're going to Stalin's bunker. I also still need to go see Lenin; I can't live in Moscow for a year and not see Lenin.

Speaking of my host mom, I still love her. She's totally my third grandma; whenever I'm going to be out late she insists that I call her and always answers the phone "Oh you're still living, eh?"
I do admit at times I get rather annoyed with having to answer to someone all time, but of all the problems I could be having in a host family situation, having someone who at times worries too about my well-being is not the worst. I also sometimes make Mexican food and she of course samples it. Without fail, she takes a little bite and promptly says "Fire! Fire!" ...she doesn't do spicy.


In conclusion, it's been getting warmer: highs in the low 30s!
Now, now, you can try to one up me and claim that a "high" in the "low 30s" is no high at all, and then continue to brag about wearing sandals and shorts and skirts (I'm talking to you, Texans and Pennsylvanians), but the day I realized I could leave the house wearing only one pair of socks was the day I realized that spring had sprung. The birdies even chirp more and the sun actually has warmth to it. ...when the sun shines, that is.

I will post again soon with pictures and videos and stories galore from our most recent eastward adventure to the Tartarstan republic of Russia.
Get ready.

Hope all is well with everyone.

23 February 2010

Rapunzel, Rapunzel

I forgot to mention:

I'm still tutoring a Russian girl in English, and each time I bring a little Mad Libs for her. Last week's was priceless and needs be shared with the world. Unfortunately she didn't understand why I was laughing so hard. ...on second thought maybe it's good she didn't understand.
Oh to be young again.


Rapunzel

Once upon a time, there was a very blue violet named Milkspiderman. She lived all alone with her evil soup in a honey tower.

She was very sad, so the very very very red and blue fairy decided to jump her. He stood at the bottom of the tower and flew into space, saying "Milkspiderman, Milkspiderman, let down your jelly, so I can sit on the purple star!"

After that, the violet and fairy lived happily ever after.


The end.

20 February 2010

Moscow Never Sleeps

Well, quite a lot has happened in the past few weeks. It's strange, I didn't even realize how quickly time is going. Every day seems to crawl by, but suddenly here I am at the end of February.

You might want to go get a cup of tea to sip on while you read this post. I have a feeling it could be long. Go ahead, I'll wait.




So, this is my life at the moment:

I'm entering the third week of classes. They are a million times better this semester for three reasons:
1) I only have two language classes (as compared to four last semester) -- Grammar and a class called Praktika which is basically a practice speaking, learn about Russian culture, and watch movies type class.
2) My earliest class doesn't start until 12:15.
3) We have no classes Fridays.


I'm also taking a Russian class. With Russian students. All in Russian. Russian Russian Russian. We could choose any class we wanted and instead of taking the final exams we do a research project about a topic connected to the class.
After a somewhat frantic last minute search for a class to take, I decided to take "Modern Internal Politics of the Russian Federation." Kelly is also taking this class, so I'm not all alone and it's a little less scary. The minute we walked into the classroom I felt like I was in Mean Girls, except instead of having only four Plastics, they were all Plastics. Even the boys. (Maybe especially the boys).
The lecture was very interesting, though. At one point the professor was talking about IKEA and how they don't want to "live under corruption" and pay bribes in Russia. The class just laughed. How else would they get things done?

The Dickinson group is also taking a class called Visual and Performing Arts in Russia; part of the class will be going to museums and galleries and the theatre. Awesome. But, um, so far we're talking about architecture...and I've discovered it's not really my cup of tea. Luckily, we usually get to drink tea during class. This helps.

As our final class, we each have an internship. After arguing with myself about whether I wanted to intern at an NGO or something to do with politics, I decided to forget about what looks good on paper and do something I actually want: Photography. Yep, I'm interning at a Photography gallery. It's. So. Cool. I have never studied photography, I just like it a lot and like to pretend that I sometimes take cool pictures. I met with the director of the Gallery, Larisa, and her second in command, Tatyana, last Wednesday. Tatyana asked me what I saw myself doing at the gallery and how I could help them; I responded "Well...I haven't studied photography so I can do whatever you want!" Apparently they liked me, because they told me to come back Friday to start my work.
I love this place; it's a small gallery located in a complex of other galleries, called the Vinzavod Center of Modern Arts. I even just love the walk to get there -- I go under a bridge adorned with graffiti and follow small, picturesque side streets to the gallery. Too artsy.
So far they have me creating spreadsheets and cataloging bunches of photographs. I don't care if that's all I do. I love it; I'm speaking Russian, I'm with artsy people, they're all really nice, we listen to cool funky music, and I get to drink tea. (By the way, in case you ever thought about putting salt in your tea instead of sugar, don't do it; salty Earl Grey is absolutely terrible.)


That's all about classes for now. Go get another cup of tea. I will now tell you about last weekend's trip outside of Moscow:

Last week Russia celebrated Maslenitsa, aka Butterweek. As in many other countries, this is the week before Lent and therefore filled with festivities and lots of soon to be verboten food. Blini are eaten every day and represent the sun, since after all it's almost spring. ...I don't really believe it's almost spring, but that's what they're saying. On the last day of Maslenitsa, the people gather and have a big outdoor festival in the freezing cold, complete with "adult games" such as men taking most of their clothes off and climbing tall wooden poles, or men again taking most of their clothes off and having a big ol' fist fight until the last man standing. No one dies. I think.
So, for Maslenitsa we traveled three hours outside Moscow to Vladimir and Suzdal, two cities on the Golden Ring, aka two pretty, important, and pretty important cities for Russian history. We walked around Vladimir just long enough to soak in the Vladimir-style architecture and since you know how much I love architecture that's all I'll say about that.



We then caught a bus to Suzdal, checked into our hotel located in one of the gagillion monasteries, and rested a bit before going to........THE BANYA.

In case you haven't heard of the Russian banya, this is what happens: you're in a super hot steamy sauna room for as long as you can take it, then you go outside and jump/roll around in the snow, then you go back into the steam room and are beaten with birch branches, then you soap up, rinse, and repeat.

I was totally expecting the banya to be this huge room with a bunch of naked Russians beating each other, but we had our own little private banya all to ourselves. The few hours leading up to our banya adventure were mostly spent questioning how many clothes we were going to be allowed to wear. I had brought a swimsuit but I was still convinced our group was about to have quite a bonding experience and be all naked. Once we got to the banya, the owner showed us to the little banya house and promptly said "Razdivyaites!" which means "Undress!" We all said "Wait...what?!" and then remembered that this also means "Take your coats off." After a sufficient amount of nervous laughter, we razdivyaitesed and prepared to be steam cooked.

Now, I despise being sweaty. It was so hot in that room, and sweat was pouring from places I didn't even know sweat could pour from. Needless to say, I was quite excited for the whole jumping in snow bit, and ran outside to play in the snow until I couldn't feel my feet anymore, at which point I returned to be beaten. The getting beat with birch branches also felt very good. I only have a few wounds that are still healing. Just kidding.


After our triumphant return from the banya, we decided to sample the local specialty medovukha, a delicious honey alcohol drink which has actually been in Russia longer than vodka.


The next day was the big end of Maslenitsa celebration in the center of town, complete with pole climbing, people running around in traditional costumes, dancing, lots of blini, and of course medovukha. We attempted to get a picture with the giant dolls, but they ran away from us and instead we asked to take a picture with some cute little dressed up girls. They first demanded candy before taking a picture with us; after handing over two pieces of chocolate, we danced and took pictures and it was all quite lovely.






























It was very very very cold and we were thus forced to dance and drink medovukha to keep warm:




It was overall a nice, freezing, relaxing trip outside the big city.


So, that is basically what has been going on.
Oh, January and February featured the birthdays of Kelly, Irina, Phil, and me, which clearly meant we had to celebrate. Jonathan had the most brilliantest of brilliant ideas and suggested we go to an Indian restaurant. I think it was the first time I have had slightly spicy restaurant food in Russia. Oh how I miss spicy food!

I also must add that my English is definitely getting worse; first of all, I can't think of words. Second, we all mix in Russian words when we're talking, and to make matters worse we usually mix the Russian with English, creating such masterpieces as "I govorilad with so-and-so" (I talked with so-and-so) or "I think I'm all priklyucheniyad out" (I think I'm all adventured out). Alright so maybe that last sentence isn't good English, either, but the point is: Russian is taking over. I have decided that I'm not protiv (against) this.

One last thing: It started snowing about four days ago and hasn't stopped. As Jonathan pointed out, it's like you're constantly getting bombarded with little icy missiles.
And everyone thought the cold war was over. False.



Until next time, dorogi (dears).

01 February 2010

A Letter

Dear Moscow,

I'm back.

I missed your smells -- your stinky, smokey, stuffy smells. I missed your people rushing to get away from the cold, especially the women wearing ridiculous heels clicking effortlessly over the patches of ice. I missed your business lunches and endless cups of tea. I didn't really miss your vodka, but we can talk about that later.

This time, Moscow, I'm not as intimidated by you. I know my way around; I speak your language (usually); I know you're harsh but you're awfully pretty sometimes. I am very glad, as you know, that I'll be here another semester. Now I have more time to process all the culture you've thrown at me and make some sense of it all. It will be difficult and full of things that won't make sense to my little Western-bread mind. I will try, however, to understand what's going on and I won't judge you for your misfortunes. You do lead a tough life, but I like that; I know what I'm getting myself into, this way.

I wouldn't mind if you'd let the sun stop by once and a while, for we used to be fairly good friends and I haven't seen him in a while. In the meantime, I'll make do with your best friend, snow. By the way, do you think it's bad that I think just below freezing is a heat wave? Yeah, I don't think so either.

Well, Moscow, I hope you're as ready for me as I am for you. Things will probably get epic (I've heard this happens when one can see Russia from one's house), and I'm positive we're going to enjoy ourselves this semester.

From Russia with love,
Kara

11 January 2010

It is vacation, after all?

Alright.
So maybe I lied when I said I would have plenty of time to update you on more things about Russia.
I do hope to do this someday, or, if you really want to know, you can ask me and I shall spill all the beans.


In the meantime, I'll fill you in on my life as of late:

I'm entering week four of my six week break. A few people from school are here with me, making this by far the most entertaining of breaks I've had yet. Another friend from Russia also came to visit for New Years, and I got to see some high school friends who I haven't seen in way too long.

Side note -- how is it already 2010? This is getting ridiculous.

Anyways, I've been trying to be a good tour guide and take people to all these nifty little unknown corners of Germany/Europe, while also forcing the guests to try different kinds of German beer (I'm sure they really hated me for that) and eating as much of my mom's food as humanly possible. We even got to go up to Bremen, Germany, to visit some fellow Dickinson students who are studying there for the year.

We've ran into Russians literally every place we've been to.
We take a day trip to Bruges, Belgium, and who is in front of us in the line to go up the bell tower? Why, a group of Russian tourists, of course, complaining about the long line. (I found this slightly ironic.)
We venture up to northern Germany only to see a stereotypical Russian man (in the black leather jacket, slightly greasy hair, and sneaky aura type way) reading a Russian newspaper right behind us.
We get to Bremen and find a group of Russian school students doing their little circle dance in the middle of old Bremen.


As the saying goes, you can take the girl out of Russia, but the Russians will just follow her everywhere she goes.

11 December 2009

I'll Be Back.

I refuse to believe that I'm leaving Moscow a week from tomorrow.
The only thing that's keeping me from being very sad about this fact is that I know I'll be coming back come the end of January. If it weren't for next semester, I would probably run away, become an illegal immigrant, and you'd never hear from me again.

This is how much I love it here.

Of course, I'm very ready for a break from school. Classes are..well...classes. You know how it goes. Today was our last big presentation for our Language through Mass Media class; all the students from levels four to six had to make a little report on the topic of "Art and Literature in the Modern World." I decided to be philosophical and say that art cannot be defined and that it's different for every person; I then went on to talk about my favorite type of art, music. Grand.
It was a little scary talking in front of more people than I'm used to, but all ended well.

I really haven't been up to much since getting back from Pskov; as I said before, classes nearing the end have forced me to actually stay home more and study. I'm so close to the end, though!

For the extra class I'm taking about Fairytales (I think I've mentioned this class before?), we have a little "open class" on Tuesday where we will perform three different fairytales and sing Russian folk songs. In the longest and most fun fairytale we'll be doing, I have the part of the evil Snow Queen who is angered by sweet little innocent Snegurochka, played by Kelly. Snegurochka is Ded Moroz's (Father Frost's) granddaughter, but in this fairytale she is just a granddaughter who represents all that is pure and wonderful in Russia. To take my revenge for being offered a hot drink (cleary the Queen of Cold would not want a hot drink), I freeze Snegurochka's heart so that she will never feel happiness again! (insert evil laughter here). After Snegurochka's grandparents attempt to cheer her up with candy, presents, and animals who tell jokes, Snegurochka's heart is finally thawed by the singing of Russian folk songs, and the evil Queen is defeated.


Tomorrow we'll also be going to the Kremlin; it's hard to believe we've been here three months and have only seen the Kremlin, but now our Russian has improved a lot so the tour will be in Russian and will (hopefully) be more interesting. Tomorrow night is also the going away party for the students who are only here a semester. We're going bowling. Old School.


I just really still can't even fathom that the semester is ending. Where does time go? I do not understand.


Speaking of time, it's time for me to leave; we're going to a hockey game! The match is between CSKA of Moscow and SKA of Petersburg.
Exciting.



This very well may be my last post before jetting home to Germany, but once I'm home I'll have gobs of time to write about Pskov and so on and so forth.


Before coming to Russia, I wasn't exactly sure why I was so enthralled and fascinated by it; now that I've been here for three months, I'm starting to understand.
This will also be discussed over break.
(Get ready, it's going to be deep.)


Ну, давай.



From Russia with so much love,
Kara.